The old man
has made his yearly ego trip.
I left Oslo
17. July for Friisbua where I normally camp in the winter. There I found a pair
of snowshoes that I had forgotten under the snow in April. Spent the night in a
tent there and left the next day for Gjevsjøen. That is, not without problems,
because when I woke up at six it turned out that the battery of my car was
flat. I paced back and forth on the road in wind and rain for one and a half
hours before a man turned up and could connect my jump cables to his car. A
long drive to Gjevsjøen, endless stretches through no-mans land both in Norway
and Sweden. Especially the Swedish countryside has been depopulated. I was picked up by the mountain farmer Nils
Gjefsjø and his son Christian who first gave me a boat ride across Gjevsjøen to
their farm and then by 4WD ATV with my luggage to the boathouse on Livsjøen
where they let me store food and equipment. There I spent the night in a tent
and rowed across the lake where my hike to Holmtjønna started. I had planned to
carry two loads to my campsite. I thought I had trimmed my backpack to a
minimum, but when I weighed it, my scale showed 47.5 kgs, far too much for an
old man. I picked out all my fishing equipment and other stuff, so that my pack
weighed “only” 35 kgs. No problem in getting this load to my camp site at Holmtjønna
where I established my base as before. The next day back to Livsjøen to pick up
the rest of my food and equipment. Once more my backpack weighed 35 kgs.
Even though
the weather was lousy, it felt good to be in place. Fishing was good, so I had
enough food for dinner. There were two periods of two days continuous heavy
rain and strong wind, when life in the tent became a bit troublesome. I had two
sets of rainwear, so that I could get out and move about, and then again get
inside the tent to change to war and dry clothing. No risk of being bored, with
radio, audiobooks, Kindle book reader and music.
Then there
was a longer stretch of weather with a blue sky, but with strong winds. At one point,
when I had caught so much fish that there was no point in fishing, I headed
against the wind for a mountaintop in the south. The wind was so strong that I
had difficulties staying on my feet, so found it safest to return what I was
half way.
I did not
see many animals: I saw three starved reindeer, a beautiful red fox at short
range and quite a lot of ptarmigan. A mouse stared helping itself to my dry
food inside my tent, so that I had to keep it in the inner tent during the
night. Problem solved when I managed to kill it with a sandal.
I caught a
lot of trout, but much of it a bit small. The biggest was 0.6 kgs until there
was a period when the fish began striking in a half-hearted manner, just
nipping at the hook or letting go before I could land it in my net. The day
before I stopped fishing altogether I had just lost two fine trout, when a big
one struck. So I ran it very carefully for ten minutes before I could land it.
Definitely the absolute highlight of the whole trip.
I met only
one single human being during the whole trip, a youth who set up his tent on
the opposite side of Holmtjønna.
At the end
a started running out of food. Bread, muesli, fish soup and coffee among other.
Pipe tobacco and brandy barely enough until the end. I routinely drink one small glass of brandy
after I hit the sack. Thus I have something to look forward to the whole day.
26. August
I took the second and last turn down from the mountain. My backpack, with some
additional fish and cloudberry felt incredibly heavy and I struggled to get it
on my back. I stopped for fifteen minutes halfway during the four-hour hike
back to the boat and picked half a litre more of cloudberry. When I finally
made it back to the boathouse, I weighed it and found that it was 50.8 kgs. I
do not quite understand how I made it: It was painful and not very wise.
Nevertheless I was happy to note that I have not yet been fully debilitated.
I do not
know anyone crazy enough to go alone and establish a base for a lengthy period
in the mountain. Most people are more lightly equipped and move about more. My
project is more like an advanced camping trip. I feel it is necessary to have
good equipment, varied food and a little luxury. Then the load to carry quickly
becomes too heavy to carry.
I aim at
repeating my adventure also next year (when I hopefully will be 75), if my
health allows it. My back and legs seem to keep up, but my head is not quite
there. Lacking short-term memory keep me looking for misplaced items most of
the time. We shall see. The mountain farmer Christian Gjefsjø talks about
getting a horse in a couple of years. Then I can possibly rent it to pack my
stuff to my base.
Conclusion:
Another successful holiday.
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| View East of Gjevsjø Mountain Farm |
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| The boathouse on the Livsjøen lake. |
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| Livsjøen in the foreground and Gjevsjøen behind |
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| My camp site at Holmtjønna |
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| Holmtjønna. Camp site on the far side |
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| Holmtjønna on the right |
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| Sculptor: Nature |
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| Normal catch |
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| Peeled trout |
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| Trout filets to be cured |
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| The filets under pressure |
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| Kjell's patent for carrying trout |
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| 6 hgs |
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| 12 hgs |
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| Christian with noise-cancelling headphones |
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| Time for a shave |